My gardening year starts now, when I start seeds for cabbage and kohlrabi seeds indoors. Our last frost date isn't until late May, but our strong sun means that the soil will be warm enough to plant out things in early spring that can handle a light frost. That includes all of the brassicas, so I plant out the cabbages and kohlrabi on March 17.
Yes, I plant my cabbages outside on St. Patrick's Day. It amuses me how appropriate that is.
Anyway.
So, let's start with where I get seeds.
I have purchased seeds from many different companies over the years. Some have been known for their heirloom varieties. Some have been known for seeds adapted to my particular environment. At the moment, I pretty much just go for cheap seeds in larger amounts. And the best bet for those is either Burgess or Seeds 'n' Such.
These are not fancy seed companies. They have very minimal catalogs, and probably not as many options for varieties as, say, Baker Creek Seeds. But! They have a lot of seeds for very little money. So even if not every seed sprouts, you can still plant a lot and come out ahead.
Just as an example, I looked up the price of Amish Paste Tomato seeds (an heirloom variety) at both Burgess and Baker Creek. At Burgess, you can get a package of 50 seeds for $1.29. At Baker Creek, a pack of only 15 seeds is $3.00.
Sooo, less than half the seeds for more than double the price? I think the choice here is clear.
Almost all seeds are viable for at least two years, many for three or four. So if you can get more at once and use them for several years, that's a much better option. Shipping tends to be relatively high with the seed sellers, so one order is better than multiple orders.
That said, even "expensive" seeds are pretty cheap, so it's not really a deal breaker if you're only getting a few things.
Okay! Now that we have the seeds, they must be planted!
In what?
I buy potting soil at whatever store we happen to be near when I need it. The bag I have now says it's "40 quarts by volume," and I've used it for three years. The reason it lasts so long is because I use shallow containers to start my seeds.
Some people like to make their own potting mixes, but I don't want to bother with all the ingredients, so I just buy it. Mix that stuff up with some water in a bucket until it's damp but not dripping and put it into . . . what?
Here is where you can go to a nursery or online and buy pots or cells or trays or . . . I don't even know. So much stuff.
I mean, check out this page of seed starting supplies. It's nuts.
I started my cabbage seeds in an old strawberry box. I like these because they already have holes in the bottom for drainage, and a top to close while the seeds are germinating. The top holds in moisture so the soil doesn't need to be watered before the seeds sprout.
I planted my kohlrabi seeds in a big container that had mushrooms in it. I had to cut holes in the bottom of that one with a knife.
I don't grow any of my seedlings big enough that they need deep containers. I find that they actually transplant just as well if they're smaller, and will actually establish a little better in the ground when they're not as big. Really big transplants--like the ones I used to buy at nurseries sometimes--are so big that they kind of go into shock when they're transplanted and take awhile to recover themselves.
I used to use small yogurt cups (with holes poked in the bottom) from the recycling bins at the dump for individual plants. Those big clamshells that mixed greens and things come in are really good, too.
Basically, you're looking for something plastic that can hold water, but be perforated on the bottom. I've tried those biodegradeable pots that are supposed to be planted right in the ground with the plant, but I found they get all soggy and moldy and fall apart before I plant out my transplants. So I prefer to just dig the transplants out of something plastic when it's time to transplant.
Because the actual containers the plants are in need to have holes in the bottom for drainage, the containers need to be in something else to contain the inevitable water leaks. I use some of those big "disposable" roasting pans.
So this is what my set-up looks like.
You will perhaps see that I use what I have. I encourage you to do the same. I feel about gardening the same way I do about cooking: Once you learn the principles involved, you should absolutely be able to adjust your materials to accomodate your personal situation.
Now that we have our seeds nestled snugly in their soil-filled containers, we just have to wait for them to sprout. Of course, they don't need any special light while they're still under the soil. So while we're waiting for the first tiny bits of green to emerge from the soil (so exciting!), we have time to figure out the light situation for when they do sprout.
And that will be the next topic. See you next week for that.
P.S. If any of you are gardeners, please jump in with your own preferences and experiences in the comments. There are as many ways to grow things as there are gardens, and all gardeners love to talk to other gardeners about their gardens. So talk to me! (And everyone else.)
7 comments:
I'm a fairly new gardener but had a giant garden last year. If you don't need many seeds, Baker Creek Seed Company offers free shipping on every order. :) They also add a mystery pack of free seeds every time you spend $10+, I think it is. I buy from lots of different companies as well. :)
My seeds are stored in a lunchbox sized soft sided cooler the children's hospital gave me when my oldest had to go there as a newborn. I think it was meant to hold breast milk (that's what the screen printed label says, anyway).
I've never had good luck starting stuff inside, but I'm having good luck with some tomatoes started in old yogurt containers in pans of water on the front porch (which is usually warmer than the rest of the house).
* than anywhere else outside the house.
I have found that seeds stored in the freezer will still sprout after being kept 10 or more years.
I've gone from cheap to free with some of my seeds by saving some from my own plants year after year. This is especially easy with basil, cilantro, peas, and beans, but I'm sure lots of plants will work. While I still lived in Ohio, I also discovered I didn't need to save or plant tomato seeds at all. Volunteer tomato plants sprouted each spring from the fallen tomatoes the previous summer and were healthier plants than anything I planted myself. As for what to start seeds in, I've had great success with those rotisserie chicken containers and straight perlite for the growing medium. It doesn't seem to grow any mold like the potting soil sometimes does, holds moisture extremely well, and can be re-used therefore lasting a looong time.
Do you use a grow light? I thought my south facing window would get plenty of light for my seedlings but they got so leggy before it was warm enough to plant them that they just had no strength for transplanting.
We're quite similar, even though I live in a much colder climate! I start my tomatoes and peppers indoors in February or March, along with whatever strikes my fancy. This year I plan broccoli and cauliflower. I can't put them in the ground until mid to late May, so I nurture the seedlings indoors under grow lights and harden them off with a few hours a day outside on the deck as we get close to planting outside in the dirt.
I use a basic seed starting mix or potting soil - whatever's on sale. I do take care to start as much as I can from seed because it's cheaper and it's, honestly, more fun.
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